How To Knit a Sock the Easy Way

Learning how to knit a sock might sound difficult and intimidating, however, with a little guidance, anyone can do it!

In this post, I’ll walk you through step by step the process of how to knit a sock from start to finish. Don’t worry if you’re a beginner; I’ll make sure to explain everything in detail with clear images and provide tips and tricks along the way.

I’ve divided the process of how to knit a sock into 8 easy steps. If you want instructions only for a specific part of the sock, click the links below:

Casting On
Knitting the Cuff and Leg
Knitting the Heel Flap
Knitting the Heel Turn
Knitting the Sock Gusset
Knitting the Foot
Knitting the Toe
Finishing

Make sure also to check out the beginner’s guide to knitting socks which covers all the basics you need to know about knitting socks.

Now, let’s dive in and learn how to knit a sock!

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A foot wearing a multicolored knitted sock with double pointed needles and a skein of yarn next to it

Materials and Tools

You will need the following materials and tools to get started with how to knit socks:

Purple, blue and pink skeins of yarn and a set of five double pointed needles for a project of how to knit a sock

8 Steps for How To Knit a Sock

I simply love knitting socks. It’s relatively quick project to finish and since it involves several easy steps, it doesn’t get boring after few rounds in. It’s a perfect little project for beginners and seasoned knitters alike.

These are the instructions for classic cuff-down socks with a heel flap, which is how I usually knit my socks. By following these instructions, you will knit a sock for the women’s size US 7 or 8 (EUR 38/39).

However, by changing the number of stitches and rounds you can create different sized socks. Check the number of stitches you need to cast on for different sizes on this knitted sock size chart.

I am using Novita 7 Brothers sock yarn and US 4 (3.5mm) needles.

Gauge: 24 sts per 4 inches (10cm)

1. Casting On

Start by measuring about 24 inches (60cm) of yarn for the long tail cast-on.

Next, cast on 48 stitches (or the amount needed for the size you want) as follows:

Tie a slip knot and place the slip knot on two double pointed needles. This way, the edge of the sock will not be too tight.

A slip knot made with purple yarn around two double pointed needles — Tie a slip knot and place the slip knot on two double pointed needles.

Then cast on 47 stitches using the long tail cast-on.

Several stitches cast on with purple yarn on two double pointed needles — Cast on stitches using the long tail cast-on.

Finally, divide the stitches on four needles. For reference, I have 12 stitches on each needle.

Knitting stitches made with purple yarn divided on four double pointed needles — Divide the stitches equally on four needles.

The needle with the stitches you knitted first is needle 1 and the needle with the stitches you knitted the last along with the cast-on tail end is needle 4. Needle 2 and needle 3 are between these two needles. The fifth needle without any stitches is your working needle.

2. Knitting the Cuff and Leg

Now, let’s start knitting the cuff and the leg. This pattern doesn’t have a separate cuff but instead the ribbing goes all the way down to the heel.

Be careful not to twist the needles and stitches when you join into round and start knitting your first round.

Knitting stitches cast on with purple yarn joined into round on four needles — Join into round before starting to knit the first round.

Start by knitting the stitches on needle 1 with your working needle by knitting two stitches and then purling two stitches across the needle. Make sure that you are working with the yarn coming from the skein.

An unfinished sock cuff with two knit stitches on the working needle — First, knit two stitches.

An unfinished sock cuff with two knit stitches and two purl stitches on the working needle — Then, purl two stitches.

When you have knit all the stitches on needle 1 and that needle is empty, that needle now becomes your working needle. Next, continue knitting two stitches and then purling two stitches across all stitches on needle 2.

Repeat this on needle 3 and needle 4. Now you have finished the first round!

Continue knitting across all rounds and stitches in this 2×2 rib (knit 2, purl 2) for about 5 inches (12cm) or any length you prefer. For reference, I am knitting 36 rounds of ribbing.

A ribbed sock cuff on double pointed needles — Knit in 2×2 rib stitch until the cuff reaches the desired length.

Each round ends after you’ve knitted needle 4. You can easily distinguish the starting point of the round by the cast-on tail end between needle 1 and needle 2.

Note: Knitting the first few rounds on double pointed needles will always feel pretty awkward. That’s totally normal even for seasoned knitters. So don’t give up but just keep knitting, things will stabilize after few more rounds.

3. Knitting the Heel Flap

Next, it’s time to knit the heel flap. You will be using only needles 1 and 4 to create the heel flap.

If you want, you can move the stitches on needles 2 and 3 on one single needle. This way, it will be easier to knit with less needles attaches to your work. You can also put the fifth working needle aside as you will not be needing it when knitting the heel flap.

Start to knit the heel flap by knitting all stitches from needle 1 onto needle 4 (needle 1 becomes now your working needle). You can use knit stitches or continue ribbing as you did in the cuff and the leg. I am using knit stitches in my sock.

An unfinished knitted sock on double pointed needles with purple and blue stitches — Start to knit the heel flap by knitting all stitches from needle 1 onto needle 4.

A finished purple sock cuff on double pointed needles with the yarn color changing now to blue — You will have only 3 needles attached to your work once all stitches have been knitted from needle 1 onto needle 4.

Next, turn your work. This wrong side row will be the first row of your slipped stitch heel flap. This is my personal favourite type of heel flap as it creates a thicker fabric for the heel.

You will be knitting the heel flap by alternating wrong side rows and right side rows.

Wrong Side Rows

This is how to knit all wrong side rows:

Holding the yarn in front of the work, insert the right needle from right to left (purlwise) into the first stitch and slip the stitch onto the right needle. Then bring the yarn to the back of your work between the first and second stitches. Finally, purl across the row. Turn the work when the row is finished.

Double pointed needles working on a heel flap of a knitted sock with one blue stitch slipped on the working needle — Holding the yarn in front of the work, insert the right needle from right to left (purlwise) into the first stitch and slip the stitch onto the right needle.

Double pointed needles working on a heel flap of a knitted sock with some blue stitches purled on the working needle — Then bring the yarn to the back of your work and purl across the row.

Double pointed needles working on a heel flap of a knitted sock with a row of blue stitches purled on the working needle — This is what your piece of work will look like once you have purled across the row.

Right Side Rows

This is how to knit all right side rows:

Slip the first stitch onto the right needle by inserting the needle from left to right (knitwise) into the stitch, as if you were to knit it but without actually doing it. Then knit a stitch as normal. Next, slip the next stitch this time by inserting the needle from right to left (purlwise) into the stitch. Then knit a stitch again as normal. Continue knitting and slipping every other stitch in this same manner. Knit the last stitch of the row.

Double pointed needles working on a heel flap of a knitted sock with the working needle inserted onto the first stitch of the row — Insert the working needle from left to right (knitwise) into the first stitch and slip the stitch onto the needle.

Double pointed needles working on a heel flap of a knitted sock with two blue stitches on the working needle — Then knit the next stitch.

Double pointed needles working on a heel flap of a knitted sock with three blue stitches on the working needle — Slip the next stitch this time by inserting the needle from right to left (purlwise) into the stitch. Then knit a stitch again.

Double pointed needles working on a heel flap of a knitted sock with the tip of the working needle slipped into the last stitch of the row — Continue knitting and slipping every other stitch and finally knit the last stitch of the row.

Knit as many rows as many stitches you have in your heel flap (that is how many stitches you have altogether on needles 1 and 4). For reference, I have 24 stitches so I will knit 24 rows.

A finished heel flap of a knitted sock on double pointed needles showing the wrong side — Knit the same amount of rows as you have stitches in your heel flap.

A neat “chain” of stitches will form at the edge of the heel flap (see the image below). The heel flap is finished once this chain contains as many stitches as you originally had on one needle. For reference, I have 12 stitches.

A finished heel flap of a knitted sock on double pointed needles showing the chain of stitches at the edge — A neat “chain” of stitches will form at the edge of the heel flap.

Finally, knit a wrong side row as the last row of the heel flap. For reference, I have now 24 rows plus the last wrong side row in my heel flap.

A finished heel flap of a knitted sock on double pointed needles showing the right side — Knit a wrong side row as the last row of the heel flap.

4. Knitting the Heel Turn

Now, it’s time to knit the heel turn.

When turning the heel of a sock, the stitches of the heel flap will be divided on three needles and the stitches on the side needles are knitted together with the stitches remaining in the middle one row at a time. This creates the decreases for the heel turn.

Start by dividing the stitches of the heel flap on 3 needles. If the number of stitches is not divisible by 3, place the extra stitches on the needle in the middle.

For example, if you have 44 stitches, place 7 stitches on the left and right needles and 8 stitches on the middle needle (7 + 8 + 7). You can find the recommended stitch devisions for the heel flap decreases in this knitted sock size chart.

For reference, I have 24 stitches in the heel flap so I will have 8 stitches on each needle (8 + 8 + 8).

A purple sock cuff and a blue heel flap on double pointed needles with the stitches of the heel flap divided on three needles — Divide the stitches of the heel flap on 3 needles. If the stitches cannot be equally divided on 3 needles, place the extra stitches on the middle needle.

When knitting the heel turn, make sure that the number of stitches on the middle needle remains always the same, while the stitches on the left and right side needles are decreased.

Heel Turn Decreases

Start knitting the heel turn from the right side of your work. You will knit the heel turn with the stitches of the middle needle.

However, first knit the stitches on your right side needle the same way as you knitted the right side rows in the heel flap: Slip the first stitch knitwise, knit a stitch, slip the next stitch purlwise and so on. Knit the last stitch of the row.

Double pointed needles working on a heel turn of a knitted sock with blue and pink stitches on the right side needle — Knit the stitches on your right side needle the same way as you knitted the right side rows in the heel flap.

Continue knitting the stitches on the middle needle the same way: Slip the first stitch purlwise, knit the next stitch and so on until you have 1 stitch left on the needle. Slip this last stitch purlwise. Then knit the first stitch on the left side needle onto the middle needle. Finally, pull the slip stitch over the stitch you just knitted on the middle needle (see the images below).

Double pointed needles working on a heel turn with blue and pink stitches and the tip of the needle working on a knit stitch — Once you have worked all stitches on the middle needle, knit the first stitch on the left side needle onto the middle needle.

Double pointed needles working on a heel turn of a knitted sock and the tip of the left side needle pulling a blue stitch over a pink stitch — Then pull the slip stitch over the stitch you knitted on the middle needle.

Then turn the work so that the wrong side is facing you. You will not knit the rest of the stitches on the left needle. From now on, you will only knit the stitches on the middle needle and decrease the stitches on the side needles.

Wrong Side Rows

Knit the wrong side row like this:

Slip the the first stitch purlwise (hold the yarn in front of the work and insert the right needle from right to left into the first stitch. Then bring the yarn to the back of your work between the first and second stitches just like in the heel flap). Next, purl until you have 1 stitch left on your middle needle. Lift the last stitch onto the left side needle (see the image below).

Double pointed needles working on a heel turn with pink and blue stitches — Lift the last stitch (blue) of the middle needle onto the left side needle.

Then purl together the last stitch of the middle needle and the first stitch of the left side needle. Next, turn the work.

Double pointed needles working on a heel turn with pink and blue stitches and the working needle purling two stitches together — Insert the middle needle purlwise into the the last stitch of the middle needle and the first stitch of the left side needle that are both now on the left side needle.

Double pointed needles working on a heel turn with pink and blue stitches and the working needle working on a purl stitch — Then pull the yarn through the stitches and purl the stitches together.

Right Side Rows

Knit the right side row like this:

Slip the first stitch purlwise, then knit a stitch and continue this until you have 1 stitch left on the needle. Slip this last stitch purlwise. Then knit the first stitch on the left side needle onto the middle needle and pull the slip stitch over the knit stitch.

Double pointed needles working on a heel turn of a knitted sock and the middle needle working on a purl stitch — Once you have worked all stitches on the middle needle, knit the first stitch on the left side needle onto the middle needle.

Double pointed needles working on a heel turn of a knitted sock and the tip of the left side needle pulling a pink stitch over another stitch — Then pull the slip stitch over the stitch you knitted on the middle needle.

Continue alternating right side rows and wrong side rows until there are no stitches left on the side needles and you have stitches only on your middle needle. Finally, knit a right side row as the last row of the heel turn.

A pink heel turn of a knitted sock on double pointed needles — The heel turn is finished once there are no stitches left on the side needles and you have stitches only on your middle needle.

5. Knitting the Sock Gusset

Now, let’s start knitting the sock gusset.

Knitting the sock gusset begins with picking up the stitches from the edge of the heel flap. If you moved the stitches on needles 2 and 3 on one single needle while knitting the heel flap and turn, divide them back on their original needles once you have picked up the stitches from the edge of the heel flap.

First, pick up the stitches from the edge of the heel flap on an empty needle. There are as many stitches as you originally had on one needle. For reference, I have 12 stitches. Now pick up one more stitch next to needle 2 so that no hole forms at the top of gusset.

Double pointed needles working on a knitted sock with gusset stitches picked on a needle from one edge of the heel flap — Pick up the stitches from the edge of the heel flap on an empty needle.

Then pick up stitches on the other edge of the heel flap the same way. Remember to pick up that one extra stitch next to the cuff.

Double pointed needles working on a knitted sock with gusset stitches being picked on a second needle — Then pick up stitches on the other edge of the heel flap the same way.

Personally, I find picking up the gusset stitches probably the most challenging part of knitting a sock. Just keep in mind to pick up truly the outermost stitch. And not to pick up the very first stitch next to the heel turn and instead pick up the stitch closest to the cuff to avoid creating a hole.

Next, divide the stitches of the heel turn on needles 1 and 4. If there is an uneven number of stitches in the heel turn, knit together the 2 stitches in the middle.

For reference, I have now 17 stitches on needles 1 and 4 and the same 12 stitches on needles 2 and 3 that I have in the cuff and leg.

Double pointed needles working on a knitted sock with gusset stitches divided on five needles — Divide the stitches of the heel turn on needles 1 and 4.

Gusset Decreases

Start by knitting one round even. On needles 1 and 4, knit the stitches you picked up through the back loop to make it twist. This way, you can avoid holes and big, loose-looking stitches. Knit the stitches on needles 2 and 3 the normal way.

Double pointed needles working on a knitted sock with twisted gusset stitches on the working needle — On needles 1 and 4, knit the stitches you picked up through the back loop to make it twist to avoid holes.

Double pointed needles working on a knitted sock with first round of a gusset stitches completed — Knit one round even before starting with the gusset decreases.

Now it’s time to begin the gusset decreases. There are currently more stitches on needles 1 and 4 than what you used to have. In the gusset, you will decrease these extra stitches. You will make the decreases at the end of needle 1 and at the beginning of needle 4.

This is how to do it:

First, knit until you have 2 stitches left on needle 1. Knit these last two stitches together.

Double pointed needles working on gusset decreases of a knitted sock with two gray stitches left on the needle — Knit until you have 2 stitches left on needle 1.

Double pointed needles working on gusset decreases and the working needle knitting two last stitches of the needle together — Knit together the last two stitches on needle 1.

Then knit all stitches across needles 2 and 3.

Next, slip the first stitch purlwise on needle 4. Then knit a stitch and pull the slip stitch over the knit stitch. Knit the rest of the stitches on needle 4.

Double pointed needles working on gusset decreases and the working needle slipping the first stitch — Slip the first stitch purlwise on needle 4.

Double pointed needles working on gusset decreases and the working needle knitting a stitch — Knit the next stitch on needle 4.

Double pointed needles working on gusset decreases and the left side needle pulling a stitch over another stitch — Pull the slip stitch over the knit stitch on needle 4.

Knit one round and then again one decrease round as instructed above. Alternate these two rounds until you have the same amount of stitches on all needles. For reference, I will knit these rounds until I have 12 stitches on all needles.

A gray gusset of a knitted sock on double pointed needles — The gusset is finished once you have the same amount of stitches on all needles.

6. Knitting the Foot

Next, it’s time to knit the foot of the sock.

Knit in the round (just like in the cuff and leg but only use knit stitches) until the foot of the sock has the right length. That is, until the knitted fabric covers the little toe.

If you are knitting the socks for someone else and are not able to try the sock on, you can check how long of a foot (sock foot length) you should knit in this knitted sock size chart.

For reference, I will knit until the sock foot is about 8 inches (20cm) measured from the back of the heel.

A purple foot of a knitted sock on double pointed needles — Knit in the round until the foot of the sock covers the little toe.

7. Knitting the Toe

Finally, it’s time to knit the sock toe using the start toe of four points. This is my personal favourite type of sock toe as it results in a more rounded, natural shape with a very subtle textural motif. You will find more sock toe variations in this guide to knitting sock toes.

Start by knitting until you have 2 stitches left on the needle. Knit these two last stitches together. Repeat this on all four needles.

Double pointed needles working on sock toe decreases and the working needle knitting two last stitches of the needle together — Knit until you have 2 stitches left on the needle and then knit two last stitches together.

Then knit one round even.

Keep repeating these two rounds until you have half of the stitches on each needle. For reference, I will knit until I have 6 stitches on each needle.

An unfinished toe of a knitted sock on double pointed needles with blue stitches — Keep alternating decrease rounds and plain stitch rounds until you have half of the stitches on each needle.

Then continue decreases the same way as above by knitting the last 2 stitches together at the end of all four needles. Continue until you have 2 stitches on each needle or 8 stitches in total.

An unfinished toe of a knitted sock on double pointed needles with two blue stitches on each needle — Work only decrease rounds until you have 2 stitches on each needle or 8 stitches in total.

8. Finishing

Once you have 2 stitches left on all needles, cut the yarn with a 8-inch (20cm) tail and thread it through the remaining stitches using a tapestry needle.

A tapestry needle threading blue yarn through stitches of an unfinished sock toe on double pointed needles — Cut the yarn and thread the end tail through the remaining stitches using a tapestry needle.

Pull the yarn to tighten properly, thread the yarn through all the stitches of the toe one more time. Then weave it in on the inside of the sock. Finally, weave in the cast on end tail as well.

A tapestry needle threading blue yarn through a stitch of an unfinished sock toe — Pull the yarn to tighten the sock toe and thread the yarn through all the stitches one more time.

And there you have it, your first sock is finished! Now all you need to do is repeat everything and knit the second sock!

A multicolored knitted sock laying on a surface — A finished classic cuff-down sock with a reinforced heel flap.

Once both of your socks are finished, block them if desired. Sock blockers are very handy when blocking knitted socks and I highly recommend them. Check out the instructions for how to block knitting here and how to make sock blockers here.

Conclusions

That’s it! Now you know how to knit a sock.

Remember, knitting socks is all about patience and practice, so don’t be discouraged if your first pair doesn’t turn out quite right. With each project, you’ll learn new skills and techniques that will help you improve.

Plus, once you get the hang of it, you can experiment with different yarns, patterns, and colors to create your own unique designs. So grab your yarn and needles, and get started on your next project.

Happy knitting socks!